Another option would be to use screw terminals like these. Unfortunately they do require a crimper, this cheap one from Amazon was adequate enough but there are probably a number of crimpers that would do fine. I prefer these over straight headers because they have a friction lock for retention. This makes it easy to remove and replace the Teensy in case something goes wrong and leaves space for wires and components.įor the wire-to-board connectors I used TE Connectivity CST-100 II housings for the wires which then mate to TE Connectivity MTA headers. The Teensy has header pins soldered to each of the terminal pads and the corresponding female headers on the proto-board. From this kit I used the 3x7cm but you can use whatever fits. These can be found pretty cheap on Amazon. I used a cheap protoboard to mount everything on. This wiring also allows for easily replacing the axis potentiometers with TLE5011 non-contact rotation sensors. Make sure to write these down for later programming into mmjoy. CS and MISO can go to any of the “BM” pins. The analog voltage signals from the potentiometers need to go to one of the “AI” pins on the Teensy. I heavily referenced this image from the mmjoy2 github. Here is how I wired the signals to the Teensy. This entire thing will be replaced with the Teensy 2.0. Take out the screws and chop all of the wires right at the PCB. First things first, the gigantic old circuit board in the base has got to go. This was great because I really did not want to open up the stick and lose a tiny piece of it. The stick itself has shift registers inside it which send all of the button states on a couple wires. The FLCS was the easiest, it is effectively plug-and-play. The Teensy 2.0s have atmega32u4 chips that are compatible with mmjoy2. In going through the process and I found a few simplifications to make the mods a bit easier, especially on the TQS.įor this project I used two Teensy 2.0 MCUs and a few components I had already. There were also many photos for when the detail I needed to see was just outside the pictures I took. I learned a lot from the forums on, there is a lengthy forum thread with a lot of information and what to watch out for.
Before buying them I did a fair bit of homework on what was needed to convert them to be USB compatible and it seemed well within my skillset.
As a project I picked up a Thrustmaster F16 FLCS and TQS HOTAS off Craigslist.
0 kommentar(er)
